My
wife and I arrived in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania late Friday afternoon looking
forward to exploring the town and the battlefield. We had originally planned on
visiting earlier this month but given the crowds for the 150th
anniversary we decided to hold off a few weeks. It had been some time since I
had visited the site and, to her recollection, it was my wife’s first trip to
the Civil War landmark. After checking in at the Gettysburg Hotel we meandered
up and down the streets, in and out of shops, and enjoyed the time away as dusk
devoured the remaining day light.
It
was a short evening for us as much of our time was spent browsing the book
stores, taking a break for a casual dinner, and watching as cars continued to
pour in from every direction...
...converging on the roundabout.
It
seemed like in every corner of the square there was something different from
the others. What caught my attention was the Masonic building just across the
street from our hotel.
By
about 8:30 our energy was gone and it was time to head off to bed so that we
could get an early start to our morning. We walked back to our room with the
mix of century sounds in the background as the slow clopping of horse hooves accompanied
the low grumble of engines and the hum of tires on the asphalt.
The
next morning we arose to overcast skies and a forecast for late afternoon rain.
Our trip was now on a deadline as we made one more quick stroll through town to
grab a quick brunch and pick up a few small souvenirs.
Back
in the car, we turned onto the square where I glanced in the corner at a statue
of President Lincoln who seemed to be bidding us farewell as we left the center
of town.
After
a quick stop at Lee’s headquarters where pictures were allowed but not easily achieved
in the small four room structure, we made our way down Seminary Ridge where we
stopped at the old Lutheran Seminary to look around a little before heading off
to the maze of battlefield roads.
From
Seminary Ridge we continued straight onto Confederate Avenue where we drove
across the Southern Line where you can see rows…
…upon rows…
…upon
rows of cannons.
Along
both lines, north and south, monuments to all the different states that fought
in the conflict are staggered to reflect their positions during the conflict.
One of the grandest on the southern side is that of Virginia which is topped by
a statue of General Lee on his horse surveying the landscape.
If
you take a closer look at the cannons throughout the national park you can get
a sense not only of the open space between the lines but the power that each
one of those pieces of artillery had on the lives of those on the other end.
This is evident when you look down the barrel and see a monument at the other
end such as the Pennsylvania monument off the muzzle of this Virginia cannon.
You can also see one of the fence lines that crisscross the fields which played
a role in the conflict in their own right.
Behind
the memorial to the 91st Pennsylvania Infantry on this peak you can
see a location which was a place of human devastation, The Devil’s Den.
Walking
down the stairs you can feel the sense of loss and dread build within you.
Throughout
the pile of rocks there are little passageways and both offered cover for those
taking fire and concealment for those charged with taking lives.
In
the middle is the spot which gave this formation its name. It was here that
lives were taken by the sharpshooters who occupied this position.
The
boulders on top of this strategic piece of topography allow you to understand
and appreciate the importance that the cover here provided. You can almost see the imprints made by soldiers perched on these rocks for hours at a time.
By
this time, the sky began to darken and rolls of thunder began shaking the earth
under our feet giving an altered sense of reality as we scanned the rows of
cannons on both sides of the field.
Soon
after, the rain came down in sheets and tourists scattered in all directions in
search of their cars or other forms of shelter. At this point we knew that our
day was nearly over so we made our way to the cemetery in the hope that we
might catch a break in the storm. To our surprise, that is exactly what
happened.
In
the middle of the cemetery is a tribute of particular significance to me. It is
known as the “Friend to Friend Memorial”.
As
is described on the plaque, this sculpture is one of the best illustrations of
the bonds of the Masonic brotherhood.
All
around this tremendous tribute are the graves of Union and Confederate soldiers
alike with the only difference between them being the words chiseled in the
stone.
Of
course, men of all ranks are represented and for some generals, memorials have
been erected by the soldiers who served under them such as this remembrance of
Major General John Fulton Reynolds who died at Gettysburg within a day ride of
his home town of Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
As
we left the cemetery I turned around and could see almost black clouds rolling
across the sky overtaking the white blanket that had enveloped us all day.
And
when I turned to head back toward the car the last vestiges of opaque light
made a silhouette that summed up the haunting spirit of these memory laden fields
just beyond the town of Gettysburg.
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