West vs. East - South vs. North

Today was the day. After nine days on the road we returned home from our Virginia exploration. However, after Colonial Williamsburg we did make one last stopover in Richmond. Basically it granted us an opportunity to visit a city that we have never visited and it got us an hour closer to home.

We left the lodge in the early afternoon yesterday and almost immediately ran into traffic… the shift back to reality was already taking place. After unpacking one last time at our final hotel and taking a moment to breathe we walked across the parking lot for a quick, and early, dinner before getting back in the car and heading into the city. Now that we have been there once I am not sure that I will be visiting any time soon unless I need to get some family research done as it is the capital of the Commonwealth.

While most of the museums were closed we were still able to walk around a few minutes once we found an open spot in the hospital parking lot. It wasn’t much but at least now I can say that I have seen both White Houses as the Confederate White House is still standing in the middle of the city (in the middle of a hospital campus actually).

With limited space around the structure, there was still room for the preservation of a small garden in the back…

…and the front of the house looks to be well maintained.

Given recent events in this country I couldn’t help but think about the importance of these places still existing. Many of you may not like it but it is a part of our history. Many of us whose roots are in the south may even have ties to this era. I know for a fact that, given our genealogical geography, my family fought on both sides. It is a part of our past that needs to be remembered, the good and the bad, the victories and the defeats, the right and the wrong.

So that was basically the extent of our time in Richmond. From there we got back on the road and circled around a few detours before returning to the highway and the hotel where we put our feet up for the first time in over a week. And I am glad that we had the chance to do so because the drive back home today was one that I would rather forget. Just another reason why I prefer the Mountains in the west over the urban coast in the east. Back to reality and back to work tomorrow.

Slowing Down In Colonial Williamsburg

On Thursday we drove across Virginia following the James River (via the highway) from the mountains to the coast (at least near the coast). We arrived at the Williamsburg Lodge late in the afternoon, unloaded the car, and made our way (albeit a little slower than previous days) into Revolutionary City for the evening. A little weary from our travels, I didn’t take many pictures that night. At least none that are worth posting. It was a temporary mental block as I wasn’t even conscious of the camera strapped across my chest for much of the evening.

However, with season passes in hand (an extra bonus included with our rooms), a good night sleep behind us, and an over the top complimentary breakfast in our bellies, we spend the next day and a half exploring the living history that is Colonial Williamsburg. In addition to the numerous old…

…and new shops…

…lining the streets there we also numerous places where we were able to learn a little bit about colonial life.

One of those I wrote about yesterday but there were also other locations were people specialized in woodworking and brick making.

Of course, being a tourist destination, there were also other amenities available to us including a spa across the street from the lodge where I sent my mom and my wife during our last morning in town. Although modern, the structures still seemed to fit in.

However, the majority of our time was spent walking around enjoying the lacework of picket fences... 

...the flowering summer gardens…

...open spaces...

…trees…

…and the interplay between nature and architecture.

Anyone who has been here before, and it has been a long time since I last walked these streets (at least two decades), knows that there is always something going on, there is always some kind of event or activity taking place. This times around, especially given the heat and humidity, we simply wanted to enjoy our time there and soak in the atmosphere. It was a nice change from the packed schedule earlier in the week which allowed us to take our time, look around, and watch as the air cleared…

…the street lights turn on…

…and the sky slowly change from blue and white…

…to orange reflecting off the wood houses…

…to the amber and gold blanket welcoming the warmth of the night.

We couldn’t have asked for a better way to end our only complete day at Colonial Williamsburg and, while not as interesting as our previous activities, it was a much needed respite from the constant activity. At this point, with one more night and a long drive remaining, we are all looking forward to our final stop of the vacation. With that said, there are a lot of things that I wasn’t able to see that will certainly keep me from waiting such a long time before our next visit. Given the ties to our family history, maybe we will even add Yorktown and Jamestown in the future.

Firearms Friday: Revolutionary Run And Gun

It always comes back to Botetourt!

I was wondering what I was going to write about this Friday for my usual firearms centric post as I wanted to tie it into my current travels in Virginia. I really was at a loss for any idea connecting the two until earlier today when we stumbled upon ‘militia training’ while walking down one of the long gravel paths behind the main thoroughfare in Colonial Williamsburg. As we got closer to the encampment I was welcomed with the familiar aroma of gunpowder hanging in the humid air.

The presentation began with a brief introduction about the living history display and what we can expect when exploring the different station at the camp including drum corps, artillery, and light infantry. From the cool cover of this briefing tent we ‘marched’ over to a large tree where we were instructed to take a “rifle” (i.e. large stick) and place it on our left shoulder. At this point we conducted a series of simple drills to simulate loading, aiming, and firing the weapon. And then there was the bayonet drills which my mom seemed to thoroughly enjoy.

Once we cleaned the rack, we had a choice as to which station we would like to experience. Given both family history during the revolution and my own interest in run and gun, it was an easy decision for me to immediately head over to light infantry. After a quick refresher of what we had just learned and a little more detail as to the role the light infantry played in the militia it was time for volunteers. No surprise, my hand was the first one up at which point we watched the demonstration of the course I was going to run.

First stage was at the 10 o’clock position where I was to load and fire. Bang!

Second stage, forward and at the 2 o'clock position from the first stage, was a repeat of the same procedure with the addition of throwing both a tomahawk at the silhouette and a grenade over the wall (disappointingly made of wood in both instances of course). I decided to go for the headshot. Bang!

The third and final stage was to return to where I started and provide cover fire for the next ‘soldier’ running the course. Bang!

Given the blisters that I had developed over the last few days and my overall un-athletic physique, I was rather surprised by how quickly this fat man can still move (without being winded at the end by the way).

From this station we moved over to artillery. It was interesting to watch a few volunteers go through the steps the first time around but it was much more entertaining when the demonstrators took their turn and put an actually, albeit light, load in the cannon.

I had no interest in drums so the best way to conclude this experience was with the fresh smoke and smell of gunpowder swirling in my nose.

A Surprising Stay

On Tuesday we packed up the car and headed slightly north to Lexington, the second stop of our Virginia tour. The Red Roof Inn in Troutville served its purpose but it was far from an excellent place to stay… stayed in worse and stayed in better. With the change we knew that we would be staying at the Hampton Inn which we thought would be a step up from where we were. What we didn’t expect was how big that step would turn out to be. As you can see in the picture at the top of this post, the historic (main building built in 1820) Hampton Inn in Lexington was quite the surprise.

During our stay there we ventured off to a few other locations (i.e. Natural Bridge and Bear Mountain) but also took advantage of both the amenities and architecture at the hotel…

…as well as the close proximity (five minute walk) to the heart of Lexington. By the way, I highly recommend the Southern Inn and Bistro On Main for dinner. Best meals, by far, during this trip so far.

Today, our final morning before driving across the Commonwealth, we took advantage of the loose schedule and spent some time at the Stonewall Jackson House which proved to be a fascinating glimpse into the complicated (and some would say conflicted) life of the Confederate general. It is one thing to read a book or watch a movie about him like “Gods and Generals” but it is a different experience and perspective when walking through his home.  

From the museum we walked across the street and did something that I haven’t done in some time (I actually can’t remember the last time)… we went for a carriage ride around town. Much like the tour bus we rode in Pittsburgh last month, this was a great way to get an overview of the town and take in as much as possible with the time that we had. In addition to the slow ride past many of the historic houses and buildings up and down the streets…

…we also passed many of the buildings which are part of Washington & Lee University.

As we made the final turn to return to our original departure point near the Visitor’s Center…

…I could see the foreboding buildings of VMI making their presence known in the distance.

And as the fortress like structure came into view we passed the resting place of one of the former instructors… Stonewall Jackson.

Back at the car as my family stretched for one last time, I ducked into the Rockbridge County Historical Society. While not as fruitful as I was hoping, it was a good conversation nevertheless and I was able to walk out of the small building with a few new contacts in the area for further research inquiries. With our feet beginning to throb we welcomed the long drive although there was a little letdown having to leave these counties to which we are so closely tied. So long Botetourt, Rockbridge, and Amherst Counties. We will be back again soon!

Sometimes You Can Feel A Place

 

The winding roads through the mountains and into Amherst County gave me the time to reflect on both all that we have seen thus far in our trip and also prepare for our next experience at the Monacan Indian Museum. I had called the museum during our drive through Lynchburg earlier in the morning so they knew that we were on our way… the most recent, as it turns out when looking at the sign in log, of a long list of family members that made the drive over the past week. Driving up to the small collection of buildings on Bear Mountain I could feel the connection with the place and the people there… it really is an indescribable feeling.

We were greeted warmly upon our arrival and after paying the modest admission fee we were shown to the next room where we watched a brief video about the history of our people. Given her recent passing, hearing Chief Sharon Bryant’s voice was both soothing knowing that her legacy lives on and also heartbreaking knowing all that she would have been able to accomplish if given more time. For those of you who have yet to view the video I have included it below and I encourage you to watch.

Upon the conclusion of the movie, we all got up and walked into the next room to learn as much as we could during our visit. Holding my son as I walked in, I was motivated even more to find the documents and information needed to become a member of the Monacan Nation. While looking around I was able to find a few more pieces of information for my research and I was able to speak with the woman who originally greeted us about what needed to be done (again, more about that later). Here are some of the pictured some the small but significant museum.
 

 

 

Even though the museum only consisted of three rooms we spent well over an hour looking around, talking, and learning about this part of our family history and heritage. After making sure it was okay to walk around and take pictures, we went next door to the Indian Mission School.
 

Given the years that it was used there is a good possibility that there were a few ancestors that received their education within those walls. It is amazing to think that the school was used until the 1960’s.
 

From within that small school house, one can look out the window and see the Episcopal Church just across a small creek.
 

A central part of the community, we walked over to the church to take a closer look…
 

…and when we turned the corner and approached the front entrance, a kaleidoscope of butterflies floated across the bridge laced clearing between the buildings…

 

…and converged on the flowering bushed in front of us.

 

As we walked away, the butterflies scattered into the wind. I am not usually one to think along these lines but I felt at that moment that was the way our ancestors were welcoming us back. It didn’t look or feel as though it was just a coincidence.  

Feeling both drained and energized, we got back in the car and drove up the road to another place I had only seen in pictures. Thankfully, we noticed the small sign along the side of the road and just a few minutes later I found myself standing in front of the final resting place for many of my ancestors. Within the lines of the single headstone at the front of the cemetery, many of my family surnames can be found… Redcross, Terry, Beverly, and Johns.

 

Behind this headstone are the graves marked with anonymous stones. All recognized as individuals but buried as a people.

 

It was the most moving part of the journey and gave me a lot to think about as we drove back through the mountains. Hopefully the next time I am able to visit will be as a member of the tribe and not just as a visitor.

Revisiting The Bridge

There are only a few things that I remember from the reunion back in 1987. Obviously, I remember a few of the faces and the fun at the gathering itself but one of the other things that has always remained in my mind was seeing the Natural Bridge. It is because of this memory that I wanted to return to the natural wonder now that I am quite a bit older and am able to appreciate the experience.

                                       

Of course, memories can be rather selective and while I retained an image in my mind there was little else about the brief time we spent there nearly three decades ago. Maybe it is because of this that I forgot all about the stairs leading down into the valley…

…and the massive trees that lined the path.

Once we got to the bottom and slowly made our way down the path the first sight did not disappoint…

…and after a few family photos and listening to a brief history about the formation and ownership of the sight we proceeded down the walkway for a closer look.  

From beneath the mammoth formation it was hard to believe the different roles that the bridge has played in history not just as a tourist destination (one of the first in the United States) but also as a functional formation for the production of cannon balls during the War of 1812 (molten lead was dropped from the top which naturally formed into a ball on the way down and immediately cooled and hardened upon hitting the water below).

Looking back you can see the deeper water where the ammunition collected.

From the other side the structure doesn’t have nearly the same visual impact but still possesses an impressive presence.

Walking further along the path there is another part of the experience that is of great personal interest to me, the Monacan Living History Exhibit. It is an unassuming presentation as you approach the site with the fence hiding much of what is behind the walls…  

…but once you walk through the entry the details are impressive. The recreated (albeit downsized) offers a unique glimpse into who Monacan villages looked during the time of first contact by European settlers (note that the Monacan are included on John Smith’s map of Virginia in 1612). Some of the structures include spaces that would have been used for meetings…

…cooking and weaving…

…as well as where people slept.

The overall ‘village’ was something to behold and the experience was only enhanced when I was able to speak at length with one of the tour guides who also happened to be a member of the Monacan Indian Nation. But that is a post for another day.

From the village we continued down the path toward the waterfall.

Along the way we came across the saltpeter mine which was also used during the War of 1812. This was a full service site at the time for the needs of artillery units.  

It wasn’t long after that when we reached the waterfall. Of all the ones that we have seen in our travels it wasn’t the most impressive but when thinking about what it helped to form it was well worth the additional walking.

Having walked to the end of the trail it was time to turn around and head back to the bridge. The weather was a bit questionable throughout the day both with heat and rain possible. However, the sky remained relatively clear and offered us a reminder as we approached…

…and back under we walked.

While there are many more memories that I will carry with me from this trip compared to the brief glimpses from years ago, I couldn’t help but take one last picture as we approached the stairs. Oddly enough, the impression is just as strong with the last glimpse as it was with the first. Hopefully, it won’t take so long this time around to return.